Bulb upgrade??

Ramajama · Mar 7, 2016

I have had projectors or HIDs in my last few vehicles. I haven't done a bulb upgrade since I put Silverstars in my old 2007 Expedition. I liked the SS bulbs and they were an improvement. I considered it a decent upgrade at the time.

So what's new these days? What's a simple plug and play, true upgrade that I can replace the halogen's in my 2015 Outdoorsman? :4-dontknow:

I don't care to do a HID or projector upgrade...just a bulb.

Thanks!!

Thunderhorse · Feb 13, 2017

Got mine swapped out, pics to come:

http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?p=1899293#post1899293

Swoggerb · Mar 2, 2017

Wow, lots of info in this thread! To be honest my brain almost exploded at page 15 so I stopped there! So I'm sorry if this was clarified on a later page. But I have a 17 sport with projectors, if I'm understanding correctly the low beams can't be fixed without hid, but the highs can? Honestly I'm pretty happy with the lighting, I just want them to appear less yellow. I will be installing a 40" light bar in the bumper for off road use, and having a mix of white and yellow just looks tacky to me. Any gain in lighting performance is always great, but my intentions are mostly aesthetic.

kelaog · Mar 2, 2017

Highbeam is a 9005 so you can upgrade to 9011. Actually so is your lowbeam so you can do the same (lowbeam is 9005SL+ which is equivalent to a 9012).

It won't look "blue" but it won't be yellow. White is made of many shades.

There are always aftermarket bulbs that have a blue tint to them to filter out yellow if looks is all you're after....

Swoggerb · Mar 2, 2017

Perfect, i can improve lighting as well as knock off some yellow! So will the basic 9011 still be closer to yellow?

Thunderhorse · Mar 2, 2017

I replaced the 9005 long life stock low beams in my quad housings with 9011s. You can compare the color here, but keep in mind that is not in projector housings:

www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php

Swoggerb · Mar 2, 2017

Thread link failed. Seems like the basic phillips hir1 9011 Is the one to get though. What about fogs?

kelaog · Mar 2, 2017

Look at TH's thread. He put in some pia lights which are pretty kickass.

Swoggerb · Mar 2, 2017

Just looked at his thread and that's perfect for me. Thanks a bunch guys. Can the bulbs be swapped out without having to adjust hight? I'm really ocd when it comes to making certain things perfect, and adjusting the lights will be one of them

G. Mcpherson · Mar 2, 2017

No adjustments needed.

Thunderhorse · Mar 2, 2017

The headlights have elevation adjustments but the bulbs are located in the same place regardless. The assembly adjustment impacts aim, not the bulb type-unless you drop in LEDs or HIDs to a reflector which create light at a different point within the reflector and will cause glare and a poor light pattern. That's not an issue for projectors though.

I know the trend is towards bluer lights, but comparing bulbs of similar lumen output yellower light will throw farther because it won't scatter as much

Gantman · Mar 21, 2017

Kelaog or Thunderhorse, question? Have either of you experienced any excessive heat to cause melting the housing or connectors from running H9s or 9011's?

Thunderhorse · Mar 21, 2017

Negative

Gantman · Mar 22, 2017

Hey sorry you two and yes you did mention this heat subject on page two. I read it over and thank you for your input. Crazy how Just over a year ago goes by quickly and after reading Thunderhorses bulb upgrade as well, on his 2013, I am feeling very positive about this upgrade.

kelaog · Mar 22, 2017

Let us know how it goes. :smileup:

Any more questions lemme know. I completely understand how easily any of the good information got lost in this thread as it ballooned up to 22 pages in a hurry. Most of the good stuff was in the first 3.

KA1OTE · Mar 23, 2017

Alrightie boys. Just spent a few hours flipping through all these pages and I *believe* I have this figured out. Correct me if I'm wrong lol.....

For clarification, I have a 2012 Ram but will be installing 2016 projector headlights. (I had to keep reminding myself of this while reading the thread - my mind kept wanting to latch onto the 2012 stats out of habit.) :doh:

This is what I *think* I need to get in order to achieve the upgraded output:
2016 Highs and Lows: 4 x https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...om/gp/product/B00480J5CW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AWEJ6BJJF0Q1A
2012 Fogs: 2 x https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...om/gp/product/B003YMPN3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

kelaog · Mar 23, 2017

You got everything but the fog lights. You need 9145's. H9 won't fit there. You could try 9155's but they might get too hot (small housing).

As usual, IMO foglights are useless. The projectors are a serious upgrade alone and provide an ample amount of foreground lighting and good distance vision. I'd get the 4x 9011's and see if you need more lighting.

KA1OTE · Apr 3, 2017

Received my 9011 Phillips bulbs Friday and finally got my 2016 headlights in my 2012 Ram today. Seriously, just a few simple snips of my nail trimmers and these bulbs were good to go. It was so easy, I was just waiting for the other shoe to drop, so to speak lol.

I haven't tested out the output as I am in for the night. However, I'm sure I'll take notice of the difference when I drive to the PO for work in the morning. Looking forward to it and will report back if I encounter any issues (highly unlikely).

jmirisola · Apr 5, 2017

So I just bought two new headlight assemblies for my 2014 - my driver's side had moisture inside and I got a killer deal (2 for $135) - and did the bulb switch at the same time. Perhaps I have my headlights aimed incorrectly, but I'm not seeing the same results as others. While they seem a bit brighter, they don't seem to project further down the road, nor to the sides.
When you all aim your headlights, what specs do you use? Seems to me I heard 4' high on a wall from 6' back. Any insight would be appreciated.

Update - Today was the first time I'd driven in the rain with the new bulbs and there was definitely a difference in brightness compared to the old ones. Overall, I'm really happy I changed them out.

kelaog · Apr 5, 2017

2.5-4" drop over 25 feet.

HPWhiteHairedGuy · May 16, 2017

"Light Emitting Douchebag" LOL! Luv it!

Yup, gotta' luv those useless splash over light mods. It's called "cut off angles " Hello!

Also bare in mind about the inherent wiring harness issues within the headlight housings themselves, in regards to our Rams. Just had my connectors permanently repaired .

Broyd · Jul 5, 2017

Well, I finally did the conversion. I got the 9011's from RockAuto last fall but waited for some warm weather to do the conversion. The bulbs were Wagner but were marked Philips.

Thanks kelaog for all your work on this thread!

I did remove the grill; by watching youtubes I had a pretty good idea of what to expect but real life is different. Grill removal was easier than I thought it was going to be. I did tape the painted flat surface below the grill just in case there was a chance of scratching the paint and I think that's a good idea. I tried to see the white tab that locks the headlight assembly into place, the one behind the wheel well door but there was so much dirt in there that I couldn't see it at first. Once I figured out what it had to be, I was able to feel inside the fender well and pushed the tab up as required to release the headlight. On the second headlight, I never tried to look for it. I found it by feel; it is pretty unmistakable.

All of the bolts to remove the grill and headlight are 10mm. The door on the back of the projector headlight assembly covering the bulbs uses 6 - 8mm screws. To remove the bottom bolt on the headlight assembly, it helps if you have a very long extension so that your ratchet is above the grill.

After removing the two screws and releasing the latch in the wheel well, the projector headlight assembly will still be held into the truck by a ball and socket type clip. To remove the assembly, it must come straight forward. The assembly was more difficult to remove than I thought. Putting a trim tool between the headlight assembly and the fender is probably the best way to accomplish this but I didn't see that suggestion until I reread this thread this morning.

Because I have a 2016 Laramie, I replace all 4 9005's with 9011's. The change in night driving was impressive. On high beam, the light dispersion to the sides of the truck was excellent; much better than the 9005's I think. In my 15km test drive last night, I easily saw two deer on the sides of the highway that I'm not sure would have been as visible with the 9005's. My only complaint is how much brighter the reflective yellow highway signs are

almost blinding.

This upgrade was well worth the effort. Thanks for everyone's input and contributions! Broyd.

Mr Panda · Sep 17, 2017

Now that this mod has been out for a while any issues with short life on the 9011 bulb vs 9005 factory bulb ??

G. Mcpherson · Sep 17, 2017

I am using both 9011 bulbs for High and Low. Working well so far. Been about 7 or 8 months with everyday use.

Thunderhorse · Sep 22, 2017

Mine are still kickin'

Mr Panda · Sep 23, 2017

Just installed a pair of 9011 in low beams and moved the 9005SL's from the low to the high beam. Will check them out tonight to see if they are indeed brighter than the 9005SL that was in low beam from factory. I did not remove the entire grill just removed the four screws on top then popped the two clips on top with a long screw driver and just tipped the grill forward. Never did figure out how the other two came out I did not want to break anything so I stopped there. I did take the one minute it took to painter tape everything off. Glad I did because on the passenger side I did grab the tape with the headlight assembly and wrecked part of the tape which probably would have marked the paint a bit.

OttoVonSchlitterbahn · Nov 25, 2017

One of my fog lights just burned out, so I replaced both with Phillips CrystalVision bulbs. Bulbs are stupid bright. When I flip my high beams on (and the fog lights automatically turn off), the road ahead appears darker.

When I'm coming or going to work at zero dark thirty, I got into the habit of only using my fogs when parking, so I'm not leaning my headlights into neighbor's houses. I made it about halfway to work this morning before realizing my headlights weren't on.

mrdodge · Nov 27, 2017

Good Evening All, just read all 24 pgs. of this thread and am happy to hear of so many success stories. A special thanks to "Kelaog" for sharing his wisdom and guidance. Unfortunately my journey for better night time vision hasn't progressed as well. My 2011 Ram has dual (H13 bulb) assemblies. Which as referenced on pg. 2 I'm SOL.

Instead of going the HID, LED route I was curious if anyone felt I could go with new quad assys. with the bulb upgrade. I know I'll need some sort of wiring pigtail but was worried mainly of comp. code faults.

I've decided I have to do something because I just can't see.
Any Response Welcomed

kelaog · Nov 27, 2017

Yikes, yeah the H13 duals are garbage. Even worse... Your only really option is to A) Retrofit!

B) Quads

C) 2013+ Projectors.

If I had to rate cost vs. benefit I'd probably go with retrofitting your existing setup with a mini d2s 4.0.

I do have a set of black quads for sale but being in canada the shipping might be prohibitive.

The other issue with trucks originally equipped with duals is that when you hit the highbeam the low beam shuts off. So you'll need to do a little wiring to get OEM functionality with the quads/sport lights/ bixenons if you go that route.

I think I have a wiring diagram done up somewhere if you're interested.

mrdodge · Nov 27, 2017

Thanks Sir for your reply, I went ahead today and ordered quad housings, H9 & 9011 bulbs. If you should run across a diagram to keep the low beam on it would be greatly appreciated.
Its safe to say the low beam only (2100 lumens) is a quantum leap from the 1000 I'm used to though. Thanks again

kelaog · Nov 28, 2017

NOTE: Not to be used with H13 bulbs...This is for those who had trucks with OEM duals and have upgraded to quads or projectors.

Really quick sketch at my desk today...NOTE

The squiggly bit on the relay is the coil (trigger). The switch part is powered by the battery.

How this works is the relay powers the low beam to be on (you'll now need an error canceler as well which isn't shown), and when the high is flipped power flows on way through the diode (power diode) to the trigger side of the low beam forcing it to stay on. Note you need the relay because a 'power' diode is only rated for 1 amp and you're drawing more like 5 for a low beam. You need the diode otherwise you'll power up the high beam when your low beam is on.

Hopefully you do not have DRL's becaues if you do then you'll have your low and high on when your DRL is on. Not the worst thing

mrdodge · Nov 29, 2017

Kelaog, many many Thanks for your efforts. All housings and bulbs are scheduled for delivery this Friday. I will keep you posted. Thanks again!

jshillin · Dec 4, 2017

Anyone use the 9011 Bulbs that are NAPA brand? If so, are they any good?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/LMA9011?ref=MA==

mrdodge · Dec 5, 2017

Well...........Shoot!

Hello everyone, just a follow up on my Light Housings & Bulb replacement. Everything arrived today & is installed. I'm happy to say I DO have much more usable light but unfortunately a lot of it is in the ditch on the right side of the road.
Hi beams (9011's) are fine, but low beams (H9's) drift to the right 3 to 5 feet around 30 feet out. I have yet to know why, at first I wanted to blame the aftermarket housings but Hi Beam is spot on so that leads me to think it's how the H9's are oriented in the socket.
I found a housing being disassembled on Utube and the pins were in the 6 o'clock position, mine are not. I find it hard to believe that orientation plays a role but that's all I can think of right now. If anyone has any thoughts on the matter I'd be happy to hear them. It may take a night or two but I will win.
jshillin, can't say on the napa brand I went with Wagner $13 ea. online.

kelaog · Dec 5, 2017

mrdodge said:
Hello everyone, just a follow up on my Light Housings & Bulb replacement. Everything arrived today & is installed. I'm happy to say I DO have much more usable light but unfortunately a lot of it is in the ditch on the right side of the road.
Hi beams (9011's) are fine, but low beams (H9's) drift to the right 3 to 5 feet around 30 feet out. I have yet to know why, at first I wanted to blame the aftermarket housings but Hi Beam is spot on so that leads me to think it's how the H9's are oriented in the socket.
I found a housing being disassembled on Utube and the pins were in the 6 o'clock position, mine are not. I find it hard to believe that orientation plays a role but that's all I can think of right now. If anyone has any thoughts on the matter I'd be happy to hear them. It may take a night or two but I will win.
jshillin, can't say on the napa brand I went with Wagner $13 ea. online.

pacofortacos said:
The orientation plays a big part in how the light shines. The only reason the H9 works at all is the filament is in the same location as the H11.

Spot on information.

The actual bulb has some variences as well. I have heard Wagner buys Osram stock (could be off Osram spec but still meets the h9 minimum specifications)

That could be the reason for the mal alignment. If both highbeams are dead on and the low beam is off then I'd suspect the same as you and not misaligned housings. It could be the bulb is not correctly seated.

pacofortacos · Dec 5, 2017

The orientation plays a big part in how the light shines. The only reason the H9 works at all is the filament is in the same location as the H11.

Bulb upgrade??

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