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Hi ,I'm not sure if it is too late but I need to let you know we have the same issue misf on cyl5 and have also just had to put a whole new differential (rear end) because of faulty pinion and et hours is 2011 5.7 I filed a complaint with the ftc too .this is absolutely RUTHLESS to rob hard working people! This truck has oil change ever 3k and plugs,coil pack etc all changed too the company needs to be accountable, on a second note I can remove my key with truck running and even drive it when the key is out,this has been like this from day we got it but thought it was a safety mode until the other day I actually forgot key was in my pocket and left truck running with my dog in it and I drove all the way home with jey in my pocket! That's crazy and definitely cant be normal??
 

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HI!

I figured I would post here as everyone is probably worn out by the 71 pages of the sticky thread on this topic.

I've started a class action suit for this issue. I need 5 individuals with this problem to be initially named to file the suit.

From attorney " I need any pamphlets, user manuals or other paperwork from when the car was purchased. Ideally there be a separate document spelling out the warranty terms. Also a repair bill or something stating the exact issue."

Bonus is you are from South Carolina ! would make the suit much easier to file. Feel free to DM me if interested.
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HI!

I figured I would post here as everyone is probably worn out by the 71 pages of the sticky thread on this topic.

I've started a class action suit for this issue. I need 5 individuals with this problem to be initially named to file the suit.

From attorney " I need any pamphlets, user manuals or other paperwork from when the car was purchased. Ideally there be a separate document spelling out the warranty terms. Also a repair bill or something stating the exact issue."

Bonus is you are from South Carolina ! would make the suit much easier to file. Feel free to DM me if interested.
[/QUOTE
2011 1500 Ram 102,000 miles
I got an overheat alarm at 97,000 miles too! Then a cylinder misfire message at 100,000 exactly. That's a coincidence huh. Same lifter issue...that's so much money a truck with so little miles and regularly serviced. I agree to with Chrysler agreeing to pay for the one with 101,000 miles because it clearly started happening well before 100k. But mine is way past the 5 or 6 year mark on the warranty unfortunately. I really dont have 4k to fix this , thanks Dodge.
 

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My husband bought a 2012 from a dealer on Nov 2019. We had 30 day warranty. A month and a 1/2 later started running bad. He changed spark plugs and coil still same. Took to shop and figured it was just lifters so they took apart and replaced and still same issue. That was 2k. Now replacing CAM and lifter to the tune with parts and laver over $3500. I feel we were taken advantage of from the dealer as we had just moved from Western NY to Suffolk VA.

Let us know what we can do here.

Thanks
 

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Interested in joining this if still in works.

2014 Ram Sport 5.7L
Engine light went on yesterday and engine started running rough at higher speeds over 2500rpm.
Took it to dealer and apparently found an Issue is with cylinder 3.
Swapped out the coil, still same issue
Compression test confirmed cam/lifter failure.
Dealer telling me I need to replace cam, lifters and both head gaskets.
Only 80,000km on the damn thing, had a powertrain warranty until 100k km but surpassed the 5-year limit 4-months ago :mad:. Not happy to say the least.

[email protected]
I live in Canada.
 

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HI!

I figured I would post here as everyone is probably worn out by the 71 pages of the sticky thread on this topic.

I've started a class action suit for this issue. I need 5 individuals with this problem to be initially named to file the suit.

From attorney " I need any pamphlets, user manuals or other paperwork from when the car was purchased. Ideally there be a separate document spelling out the warranty terms. Also a repair bill or something stating the exact issue."

Bonus is you are from South Carolina ! would make the suit much easier to file. Feel free to DM me if interested.
What ever happened? Did you have any luck with attorney, Dodge? I got my $4500 estimate from dealer today. Cam, lifters and rocker arms. 2014 Dodge Challenger 44,000 miles. Mint condition garage kept. 5.7. I don't live in SC.
 

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I just got the code on mine and changed my coil pack and plugs to no avail. Pretty sure it's this issue. 2016 5.7 l hemi just hit 105 so I'm sure I'm out of luck in n warranty.
 

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You may want to post a link to this thread in the sticky to attract some subscribed members from that thread.


If this forces Chrysler to acknowledge the problem and identify the cause that could only be a good thing. This is really the only big issue these engines have that keeps them from going 400,000+ miles regularly.
Hi there, where are you at in your class action? We are going to start one in Canada over the same issue but are adding Dodge dealerships as a plaintiff. Dealerships here are attempting to turn the Hemi a Tick into a new revenue stream, denying valid warranty repair claims. Please share any information you have that could assist us, it would be much appreciated.

I'm kinda with you Garc. The cam/lifter issue has been perking along for some time now and it is frustrating that a definitive cause for the problem hasn't been identified or even suggested. But I'm with you, a million+ hemi's out there and they're not all plagued with this issue. There has to be a reason for this and I'll bet it's a simple one ie extended oil change intervals? synthetic oil? oil brand?......and I don't think it's because of long idle times....I mean how much oil does a needle bearing need to be lubricated? I also think Ram knows what is happening but doesn't dare reveal it.
Hi there, what do you mean by extended oil change intervals? Do you mean the intervals between oil changes should be more than 16,000km? We always used top quality synthetic oil but the dealership is now claiming our lube shop used the wrong oil filters and a “dirty recycled synthetic mix” which is not true. They claim to have provided pictures and a full report to FCA but they refuse to show them to us and FCA won’t show them to us. The Dodge dealership in Olds refuses to give us our own service records. When we asked a Chrysler dealership in Grande Prairie they said yeah no problem, they’d email our service records right away, then emailed my husband back and said sorry, we can’t send your records after all, they’re confidential. Does that make sense to anyone?

Mountain View Dodge in Olds, Alberta claims the constant ticking (that we first reported to them at ~50,000km it’s now at 133,000km) is due to a seized wrist pin and tore apart the engine before checking for knock codes, doing cylinder compression tests or following ShopKey diagnostic guidelines. Can a truck go for 83,000km with a seized wrist pin? Even though they’ve torn our engine apart, is there still a way to check the cam and lifters? If there is, what do I specifically say to the service department to demand they check them? Because my husband told them when he took it in that he thought it was the lifters. They claim it‘s a seized wrist pin. How do I demand they prove it wasn’t the lifters? Please advise.

H
Interested in joining this if still in works.

2014 Ram Sport 5.7L
Engine light went on yesterday and engine started running rough at higher speeds over 2500rpm.
Took it to dealer and apparently found an Issue is with cylinder 3.
Swapped out the coil, still same issue
Compression test confirmed cam/lifter failure.
Dealer telling me I need to replace cam, lifters and both head gaskets.
Only 80,000km on the damn thing, had a powertrain warranty until 100k km but surpassed the 5-year limit 4-months ago :mad:. Not happy to say the least.

[email protected]
I live in Canada.
Hi there, we want to start a class action suit in a Canada.

Our 2013 Ram 1500 Sport is still covered by our $7,400 extended warranty - but Mountain View Dodge in Olds and FCA are refusing to warranty our repair - first claiming improper maintenance, then their service manager claimed our lube shop used the wrong oil filters and a “dirty recycled synthetic mix” despite our having paid for top quality synthetic oil and the correct filters are clearly listed on our service invoices.

Mountain View Dodge claims they sent a full report with photos to FCA but refuse to show it to us. They also refuse to give us a copy of our service records, and when my husband contacted a dealership in GP by phone they first said of course we could have a copy of our records, then refused via email claiming they're confidential. Huh??

So now our engine is torn apart and they never did a single Industry standard diagnostic to check if it was indeed bad lifters. No compression test, there were no knock codes, and the ShopKey diagnostic would never have recommended a full engine tear down.

My husband brought it in advising them he thought it was lifters but they claim it’s a seized wrist pin and claim it‘s our fault. Could a truck with a seized wrist pin run with no performance issues for 83,000km? Every credible mechanic I’ve talked to says NO WAY. Because we first brought it in about the tick at ~50,000km and Mountain View Dodge claimed they couldn’t hear a tick but said they’d check it out. Second service visit for the tick same thing...we can’t hear anything but we’ll check it out. Do you think they're withholding our service records because they didn’t complete any diagnostics on the tick and the likely culprit ShopKey would have diagnosed...bad lifters?

When I talked to an AMVIC rep about this lunacy, she said they’re overloaded with complaints, currently a three month backlog because with the economy being so bad, businesses they work with (dealerships, repair shops and used car lots) are “doing almost anything to keep the doors open” - that‘s good to know!

We’re hoping we can collect enough factual accounts and raise enough funds for a retainer to hire a class action lawyer to look into this.


Ill join in, i found this issue on my 13 here in Canada..
Hi there, check out our story and message us with your details. We have a 2013 Sport still under warranty but Mountain View Dodge in Olds and FCA are refusing the repair. Their mandate appears to be keep lifter repairs off the books no matter what it takes. Let’s do something about this so they’re either forced to issue a recall or stop betraying loyal customers.

 

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Hi there, where are you at in your class action? We are going to start one in Canada over the same issue but are adding Dodge dealerships as a plaintiff. Dealerships here are attempting to turn the Hemi a Tick into a new revenue stream, denying valid warranty repair claims. Please share any information you have that could assist us, it would be much appreciated.
I don't have one, my truck has been trouble free
 

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Hi there, where are you at in your class action? We are going to start one in Canada over the same issue but are adding Dodge dealerships as a plaintiff. Dealerships here are attempting to turn the Hemi a Tick into a new revenue stream, denying valid warranty repair claims. Please share any information you have that could assist us, it would be much appreciated.


Hi there, what do you mean by extended oil change intervals? Do you mean the intervals between oil changes should be more than 16,000km? We always used top quality synthetic oil but the dealership is now claiming our lube shop used the wrong oil filters and a “dirty recycled synthetic mix” which is not true. They claim to have provided pictures and a full report to FCA but they refuse to show them to us and FCA won’t show them to us. The Dodge dealership in Olds refuses to give us our own service records. When we asked a Chrysler dealership in Grande Prairie they said yeah no problem, they’d email our service records right away, then emailed my husband back and said sorry, we can’t send your records after all, they’re confidential. Does that make sense to anyone?

Mountain View Dodge in Olds, Alberta claims the constant ticking (that we first reported to them at ~50,000km it’s now at 133,000km) is due to a seized wrist pin and tore apart the engine before checking for knock codes, doing cylinder compression tests or following ShopKey diagnostic guidelines. Can a truck go for 83,000km with a seized wrist pin? Even though they’ve torn our engine apart, is there still a way to check the cam and lifters? If there is, what do I specifically say to the service department to demand they check them? Because my husband told them when he took it in that he thought it was the lifters. They claim it‘s a seized wrist pin. How do I demand they prove it wasn’t the lifters? Please advise.

H

Hi there, we want to start a class action suit in a Canada.

Our 2013 Ram 1500 Sport is still covered by our $7,400 extended warranty - but Mountain View Dodge in Olds and FCA are refusing to warranty our repair - first claiming improper maintenance, then their service manager claimed our lube shop used the wrong oil filters and a “dirty recycled synthetic mix” despite our having paid for top quality synthetic oil and the correct filters are clearly listed on our service invoices.

Mountain View Dodge claims they sent a full report with photos to FCA but refuse to show it to us. They also refuse to give us a copy of our service records, and when my husband contacted a dealership in GP by phone they first said of course we could have a copy of our records, then refused via email claiming they're confidential. Huh??

So now our engine is torn apart and they never did a single Industry standard diagnostic to check if it was indeed bad lifters. No compression test, there were no knock codes, and the ShopKey diagnostic would never have recommended a full engine tear down.

My husband brought it in advising them he thought it was lifters but they claim it’s a seized wrist pin and claim it‘s our fault. Could a truck with a seized wrist pin run with no performance issues for 83,000km? Every credible mechanic I’ve talked to says NO WAY. Because we first brought it in about the tick at ~50,000km and Mountain View Dodge claimed they couldn’t hear a tick but said they’d check it out. Second service visit for the tick same thing...we can’t hear anything but we’ll check it out. Do you think they're withholding our service records because they didn’t complete any diagnostics on the tick and the likely culprit ShopKey would have diagnosed...bad lifters?

When I talked to an AMVIC rep about this lunacy, she said they’re overloaded with complaints, currently a three month backlog because with the economy being so bad, businesses they work with (dealerships, repair shops and used car lots) are “doing almost anything to keep the doors open” - that‘s good to know!

We’re hoping we can collect enough factual accounts and raise enough funds for a retainer to hire a class action lawyer to look into this.



Hi there, check out our story and message us with your details. We have a 2013 Sport still under warranty but Mountain View Dodge in Olds and FCA are refusing the repair. Their mandate appears to be keep lifter repairs off the books no matter what it takes. Let’s do something about this so they’re either forced to issue a recall or stop betraying loyal customers.

Melinda
No, I meant that the 16000km change interval is too long. I change mine every 6500km (severe duty schedule) with conventional Valvoline 5/20 and a Valvoline filter. (I still don't think hemis like synthetics).
On a different note I believe FCA will never take responsibility for the cam/lifter problem. I think they have fixed the problem on newer models (2016+?) and will now just wait till the problem runs its course......Ford did the same thing with its spark plug spitting Triton engines. Wait long enough and the problem will disappear.
 

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Pony I agree with you.
IMO doing the bare minimum as far as maintenance and expecting years of trouble free operation are not compatible things.
The long oil change interval rec. is for JD Power cost of ownership comparison and to barely cover the warranty period - that's it.

Note in the owners manual.
1500 Models Only NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 10,000 miles (16,000 km), twelve months or 350 hours of engine run time, whichever comes first.

So that is the bare minimum of maintenance to cover the warranty period and they know some will make it to the end of the warranty period and some wont' - but the vast majority will AND it lowers the JD Power cost of ownership metric.

To me it is like the people who drive on their tires until there are 1/32"-2/32" of tread left, then hydroplane, wreck, and blame the tire.
Doing the minimum required always carries a risk and possible cost.
 

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Pony I agree with you.
IMO doing the bare minimum as far as maintenance and expecting years of trouble free operation are not compatible things.
The long oil change interval rec. is for JD Power cost of ownership comparison and to barely cover the warranty period - that's it.

Note in the owners manual.
1500 Models Only NOTE: Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 10,000 miles (16,000 km), twelve months or 350 hours of engine run time, whichever comes first.

So that is the bare minimum of maintenance to cover the warranty period and they know some will make it to the end of the warranty period and some wont' - but the vast majority will AND it lowers the JD Power cost of ownership metric.

To me it is like the people who drive on their tires until there are 1/32"-2/32" of tread left, then hydroplane, wreck, and blame the tire.
Doing the minimum required always carries a risk and possible cost.
I agree. My dad tells me I am wasting money changing synthetic oil at 5000 mile intervals, he changes his at the same interval but uses conventional. Maybe, but having had used oil analyses done the additives in the Valvoline I use (which is group III and not a real synthetic) will not support a 10,000 mile interval because by that point the TBN will be lower than what I want in my crankcase. He has about 30,000 more miles on his Hemi than I have on mine and neither of us have had any engine problems (he does have a lifetime powertrain warranty since he bought the truck new in 2009). What I don't do is look at a bottle of oil and see claims of going up to 10,000 miles (some now say 24,000) and then wait until hit 10,000 miles before scheduling an appointment or buying supplies so I'm at 10,100 by the time it gets changed. 5000 miles gives me some wiggle room on the back end in case something comes up and I don't get it changed until 5500 miles, and I don't have to be overly concerned with adjusting for towing, etc...

Realistically, oil life is a function of engine hours at RPM, load, etc... If I spend 5000 miles doing mostly highway driving with no load then that is much easier on the engine and oil than 5000 miles of towing a 6000lb trailer in the city. In the latter case you may need to change at 3000 miles to have roughly the same wear on the oil that you do in the former case.

Further, in the 2009 manual, it states never to go over 5000 miles. It has changed over the years until they arrived at 10,000 without making any changes to the engine. Why, all of a sudden, would it be ok to double your oil change interval when the engine is exactly the same as it was when they directed you not to go past 5000?
 

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Thunderhorse, the increase is because of JD Powers cost of ownership metric - ie. the cost of ownership in the first 3 years or 5 years usually.
 

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TBN isn't much of a concern for gasoline engines. What is of concern is thermal oxidation stability as engines get hotter and hotter, and detergent / dispersant package quality and quantity. These are most important. Measured via many tests, TOST, NOACK, GM 350, etc. etc.
BITOG has mostly concluded Shell Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is the best bang for the buck. Unless you really hate changing oil and go with Amsoil API Group IV (or Royal Purple, or whoever still makes Group IV).
 

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TBN isn't much of a concern for gasoline engines. What is of concern is thermal oxidation stability as engines get hotter and hotter, and detergent / dispersant package quality and quantity. These are most important. Measured via many tests, TOST, NOACK, GM 350, etc. etc.
BITOG has mostly concluded Shell Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is the best bang for the buck. Unless you really hate changing oil and go with Amsoil API Group IV (or Royal Purple, or whoever still makes Group IV).
Redline is group V FWIW, I use it in my diffs.

Another thing to consider is how long you're going on a filter. I suppose you could change the filter and not the oil, but that seems weird, and there's still going to be wear metals and stuff that the filter didn't catch (especially if its been in bypass for whatever reason).
 
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